St. William’s Cathedral, Laoag, Ilocos Norte

Part 20 of a series
DAY 3

After having a “just-okay” lunch at the Cape Bojeador Cafe and Restaurant in Burgos, Ilocos Norte, we immediately rushed back to Laoag to tour around the city.

The Ilocos Norte Provincial Capitol was built in 1918 with American Neoclassical Architecture. Located at the northern end of the Aurora Park, it dominates the city plaza of Laoag.

At 3:33pm, we arrived in the metropolitan cathedral of Laoag City, otherwise known as St. William’s Cathedral. The St. William’s Cathedral was built in 1612 by Augustinian friars to replace a wooden chapel. It is known for its Italian Renaissance design. The church is located a few meters southeast of the Aurora Park.

The church has an unusual two-storey facade, supported by two pairs of columns on each side of the arched entrance. The top of the facade holds a recessed niche that showcases the image of the city’s patron saint, San Guillermo (Saint William). It has windows made from capiz with wrought iron screens.

The church was damaged by a hurricane in 1640, by an earthquake in 1706, and by fire in 1843. The church was restored in 1880.

Meanwhile,…

Have you forgotten or do you need to be reminded about the ten commandments?! These two tablets stand, fronting the parking area so basically, everyone can see it.

The Interiors

A wedding ceremony was about to start during our visit.

I don’t know what it is about wedding ceremonies happening during our Ilocos Church visits (Agoo, La Union).

Vision-Mission Statement of the Diocese of Laoag

The Sinking Bell Tower in Laoag. The city is also known for its Sinking Bell Tower, which sinks into the ground at a rate of an inch a year. It’s a massive 45-meter bell tower which is said to be one of the tallest bell towers in the Philippines and was built by the Augustinians in 1612.

Separate bell towers are typical of Ilocos churches but this bell tower is one of the farthest from the main church building at 85 meters!

“Oh geeze, it’s sinking!”

A plaque on the base of the belltower reads:

This centuries old 45-meter tall bell tower built by the Augustinian Friars in 1612 is one of the tallest and most massive in the country.

The construction is typical of the earthquake baroque structures found in Ilocos. Built of old brick and stone-faced with lime stucco plaster, the tower rises in four tiers. The base with is massive rounded corners supports the graduated upper tiers noted for its graceful curved buttresses and corner treatments, givit it its early baroque appearance. The tower is crowned by a double dome topped with a cross.

Access to the top is through a vaulted tunnel leading to a winding wooden stairway. At the top are 6 bells of different sizes. A big bell on the third tier when rung can be heard in nearby towns.

Tales by old people mention that a person on a horseback once could enter its vaulted entrance without stopping. Now, a person of ordinary height has to stoop to enter through the tower door, becaus the tower has sunk considerably and evenly, thus its reputation as “The Sinking Bell Tower of Laoag”.

Despite its sinking state, the bell tower still continues its simple purpose of ringing the bell to call the faithful to mass and other church services. It’s a pity though that one can’t take a photo of the bell tower without any obstructions. Sigh!

The Tobacco Monopoly Monument

When the Spaniards discovered that the land and climate of Ilocos is perfect for growing tobacco, they forced the people to plant only tobacco and no other crop. The sakadas were also forced to sell the tobacco leaves only to the Spanish government. This has lead to numerous resistance among the locals. There were also stories of untold abuses done by the authorities. For one hundred long years, 1781 until 1881, the tobacco monopoly existed in Ilocos. A period of dark history in Ilocandia.

It was only in 1881 when King Alfonso XII lifted the tobacco monopoly. The people of Ilocos then erected the Tobacco Monopoly Momunent as a thanksgiving to the Crown of Spain for recognizing the stuggles of the Ilocano people against the Monopoly.

The tall yet graceful monument is located right at the center of Laoag City plaza, in front of the Provincial Capitol.

At 3:55pm., we were already leaving Laoag City. But before we could leave the city with heavy hearts, we had to pass by the Gilbert Bridge which was built across the Laoag River to connect Laoag to the town of San Nicolas.

The Sinking Bell Tower of Laoag is clearly seen from the Gilbert Bridge.

Bye, bye, Laoag! ‘Til next time!

(…to be continued)